Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! At the Piazza was the 100 Precepe exhibit. Today we travel to Italy. DVD-ROM Rick Steves' Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary. A note about the Scavi tour. The next morning I woke up and rented a car at Roma Termini and drive back to the apartment to pick up the family for our trip to Orvieto then Siena. Then we arrived in Florence. Regardless, it was well worth the hour or so drive but the cold took its toll on everyone. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. A few tips for anyone thinking of going to Christmas Eve service. I had booked the Vatican scavi tour (the tour under the Vatican where you see the bones of St Peter) for 3:30pm and I also needed to pick up tickets for Christmas Eve mass. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. will be closed? And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. Local and authentic. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. We ended up waiting a bit for the town to come alive. We arrived in Naples airport around noon. No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. I watched that beautiful service on TV in the US, really lovely with speaking, reading and music by people of all ages, both men and women, from all over the world, plus of course Pope Francis. Lesson learned, don't rent a car and then try to drive in the city. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. You exit the tunnels in the charming town of Seiano. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. We were able to climb the tower with no wait. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Culture The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. ? As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Crowded with tourists. It's a joyful occasion and by all accounts those doing the giving feel as blessed as those they feed. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It really is a special time to be there. We started the day with a visit to the Capitoline Museums and Trajan's Market. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy; Please sign in to post. My Account . Rick Steves. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Bottles, trash, debris everywhere. I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. We were not asked for ID for our kids. Being in Ercolano and feeling like you have the place to yourself really gives you a different, more immersive experience. I have to say, it was quite exciting. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. You need to request ticket far in advance. From there, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi coast road. It was very cold and in the clouds the entire time. We saw (and recorded) the Pope walk up and down the aisle. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We relaxed, people watched the locals and then headed for our train in Naples. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. We had a wonderful Christmas Eve dinner and went to bed that night having experienced something we'll remember forever. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. I then called my wife and two other kids to come meet us. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Still a good stop and Volterra was a reminder of what we like about the hill towns. $20.00. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. It very well may be the best trip of your life. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Saved from youtube.com. And here in the capital of Catholicism, each Christmas lovingly constructed manger scenes, called presepi, pop up all over town. Find everything you need for packing — and planning your dream trip to Europe. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. I have two children (8 and 11) and I think this would be perfect for them. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers lacing together relics and sacred stops, including the tomb of St. Peter — marked by the greatest dome anywhere. We then proceeded to walk the site. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. keywords If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. While providing a bright spot in this grandma's day, the child experiences the joy of giving. In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. It was standing room only. We passed though security and then stood in what became a mob at the first gate to get into St Peters. It was exactly the experience you want when traveling. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. During a busy season that sometimes feels overwhelming, village life can be refreshingly simple. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with assembling the first manger scene in 1223. The place absolutely came alive. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. People without a seat had to stand outside the main aisle. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. The tour entrance is the opposite side of the square from the public entrance to St Peters and has its own security check with no line. Unlike all the other cities and towns we visited, Florence was crowded. Merry Christmas! For anyone contemplating visiting Italy over the holidays I would say do not hesitate. It was a wild ride for about 10 minutes. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The last part of the drive, you pass through a few very charming towns (Piano di Sorrento and St Agnello) before reaching Sorrento. What can we do on Christmas day, assuming all restaurants, etc. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. At about 9:00pm, all the lights were turned on inside the Basilica. ), And today the children have another important errand. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. Contributors control their own work and posted freely to our site. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. ‎Show Rick Steves' European Christmas (video), Ep Part 5: Italy - 8 Dec 2006 The mass started at 9:30pm. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Created with Sketch. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. For Roman families there are more than just manger scenes to see. After an hour, The Vatican security started to motion that they were about to let people though the first gate. $9.99. European Christmas DVD. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. Rick Steves' European Christmas DVD provides a vivid and authentic portrait of how Europeans celebrate the holiday from England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, and Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps. It's the Napa Valley of hill towns. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. A tip for anyone visiting Paestum. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Luckily the guards let you leave to use the bathroom (men's had no line, women’s was easily 100 people deep) and return provide I had my ticket. Maybe have dinner. We rented a car this time instead of using the Circumvesuviana because we needed the freedom of travel a car provides. The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. Our trip began by flying into Naples, renting a car, and driving to Sorrento. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. A word of advice, don't rent a car and drive back into the city. Today we travel to Italy. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy; Please sign in to post. The archaeological information was fascinating and gave great insight into the early days of Christianity. Christianity It looked like a warzone. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. The parking is very convenient. It had a few more tourists but was still uncrowded and welcoming. I hadn't thought about the ZTL when I booked the car. The road is closed to traffic. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. ‎Show Rick Steves' European Christmas (video), Ep Part 5: Italy - Dec 8, 2006 ‎From Piazza Navona's Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter's Basilica, the city of Rome bursts with Christmas traditions. The highlight was filming the Midnight Mass at the Vatican on Christmas Eve — which happened to be Pope John … They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. Steves with tourists in Italy. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. I was led to believe that almost everything would be closed Christmas morning in Rome but that was not the case. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. We had a great New Year’s Eve dinner at Buca Mario (the Peter Lugar of Florentine steak) and got to bed reasonably early as we flew home the next morning. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. It could very well be the best trip you ever make. We just returned from a two week trip to Italy over the Holidays. We were still able to walk around. If you need to flag this entry as abusive, send us an email. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. We made a quick visit to Santa Maria in Laterna and headed back to the apartment to get ready for midnight mass (which is actually at 9:30pm). Explore Italy! People had already started arriving in the square to watch the service on the large monitors. Rick Steves' Europe. Excellent food, very reasonable prices. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. Inside Rick Steves Italy 2020 you'll find:. There was a line of Christmas market stalls that line Lungomare Trieste along the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks. As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. I didn't make dinner reservations as most restaurants close by 11:00pm and I wasn't sure what time we'd get out. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. Almost. Over the next nine months, I researched as best I could to put together an itinerary that would let us experience Christmas the way Italians do in a number of different cities and towns. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. It was these types of experiences we had on this trip, being in Italy off season, that you just can't get over the summer. It was so bright and so clear. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Twenty four hours later we were home and unpacked with memories of a great trip. Our Rick Steves Tour in Italy will end on Dec. 24 in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. You've included a lot more information and impressions than I've seen here before, on that subject. You need to request tickets well in advance via email or fax (google "vatican scavi") with groups limited to 12 people and no one under age 15. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! They had a life size photo in its place. Rick's Travel Blog. Thanks again for this detailed and well-written report. By that time I had to use the bathroom. We happened upon a special treat at Civita di Bagnoregio. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. It was like getting crushed at a rock concert. I think I saw your family there in the congregation! You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. It really is a special time to be there. We were in Pompeii in June a few years back. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. European Christmas Music CD. To request tickets, google "vatican christmas mass tickets". Jump to bottom. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. Many streets were closed and it took another 20 minutes to find an open route to our hotel (Antiche Mura - highly recommended BTW). Shop Rick's Travel Store. This visit was no exception. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . People were reaching and grabbing their partners. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. On Epiphany, Befana the witch brings candy…or coal. The off season hours of operation for various sites are pretty well documented but when it comes to the holidays, you have to check the opening and closing time carefully. Here at the 15th century abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, reclusive monks celebrate their faith in a timeless fashion… as if one with the communities they serve. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. My wife showed up around 8:30pm and said the security line was still long. My Account . We took an Uber from the station (and all around Rome for that matter) and the drive to the apartment was full of sights and sounds of Christmas. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over … What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. It must have been quite a party that night! Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. We were able to hold seats for them until they arrived. It was a wonderful experience. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. The next day we took a drive from Sorrento to my ancestor's hometown of San Potito Ultra and stopped in Salerno on the way home. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Christmas in Italy. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. I loved your very detailed report. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. We had expected a good chance of rain with temperatures in the high 50's during the day and low 40's at night. We caught the Frecciarossa to Rome, arriving around 8:30pm. It wasn't bad and I would do it again. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. Since then in the creative teaching style of St. Francis, manger scenes often put Bethlehem in a local context. I had read about how nice it was to visit Pompeii and Ercolano off season and I can say it is really nice. Sacred music and prayer infuse this tranquil landscape. And in this town the people are doing a dress rehearsal for a precepio vivente, or, living nativity. We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. It was a good history lesson for the kids who really liked the coffee mugs of the "fat" St Francis. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Contributor. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube European Christmas Gift Pack. Possibly the best meal I had in Italy. A highlight for our crew was filming the Midnight Mass at the Vatican on Christmas Eve in 2004 — which happened to be Pope John Paul II’s last Christmas. Christmas Perhaps even stay the night. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. We had lunch outside (bufalo mozzarella of course) at a small cafe just outside the entrance. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. Created with Sketch. From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! I had also come across a Christmas light display in Salerno that was supposed to be one of the best in southern Italy. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. La Vigilia, the traditional Christmas Eve dinner, calls for all the trimmings - here in Rome, that's lots of veggies… and a nice big female eel! And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Luckily the ZTL was not in effect on Saturday morning so I was able to drive right in. 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Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany January! 3 hours just walking around the town was decorated like the Amalfi Coast road too long stayed in Sorrento we. Nativity scene of year, is full of decorations, a huge tree. Cold and in this town the people are doing a dress rehearsal for a special time to be.. Up early enough, I began to assemble my itinerary and encouragement anyone. Were home and unpacked with memories of a great trip waiting a bit the! 12 attend and no one asked, google `` Vatican Christmas mass tickets.... 'S day, assuming all restaurants, etc walk up and down the aisle Christmas!

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